I’ve always desired to witness the majestic sandhill crane in its natural habitat. These birds embark on an incredible migration journey from high northern areas like Siberia to spend winters in select warmer locations across the United States. One such winter sanctuary is the Whitewater Draw Wildlife Refuge in Arizona. This New Year holiday break presented the perfect opportunity to turn this long-standing dream into reality.

Setting out from San Diego, I spent a night in Tucson before embarking on the morning journey. The transition from the hustle and bustle of the city to an empty prairie with unpaved dirt roads marked my approach. Upon reaching the refuge, the surreal scenery unfolded before me – a canvas of blue sky adorned with clouds, a small pond nestled amidst a grassy field decorated with dried trees. Recent rain had left its mark, presenting a vibrant rainbow arching across the water. The rain had also transformed the dirt path to the water’s edge into a muddy clay field, posing a walking challenge. However, my excitement soared as I heard and spotted a group of cranes not far from me, marking the realization of a dream years in the making.

Throughout the day, intermittent thunderstorms passed through. When rain fell, I sought refuge inside the car but relished watching flocks of cranes gracefully navigate various feeding grounds. In the early afternoon, a large flock of snow geese made a grand entrance, allowing me a special moment to observe them taking a nap along the water’s edge. As the afternoon progressed, yellowheads returned to the grass field, treating onlookers to an extraordinary murmuration – a breathtaking display of swirling and turning akin to a massive fish ball underwater.

With the setting sun, cranes commenced their return to the pond where they roost for the night. Flocks from all directions converged above the water, forming a tornado-like spectacle. The air was filled with their cacophonous calls, reminiscent of a stadium filled with spectators witnessing an epic game. It was nature in its full force. That night, I camped not far from the water, eagerly anticipating the cranes’ departure from the pond to the feeding grounds in the morning.

As dawn broke, the sound of cranes grew louder, gradually reaching a crescendo. They began flopping their wings to remove the dew from the chilly night. Once they were ready, they turned their bodies into the wind. Unit by unit, they took flight, creating a symphony that awakened the world around me – another awe-inspiring show.

Having learned that Bosque del Apache in New Mexico was another significant roosting ground for sandhill cranes, I wasted no time and drove there overnight. Initially disappointed by the sparse bird population at the famous ‘fly deck,’ I decided to explore the wetland roost or the ‘crane pond.’ As the sun rose, a small flock of cranes prepared for take-off, bathed in golden light with their reflections on the pond against a backdrop of golden mountains. The scene was nothing short of breathtaking.

At the refuge, I discovered that all the cranes congregated in the Bernardo Wildlife Area, feasting on a cornfield about an hour’s drive away. Approaching the exit from the highway, my excitement peaked as I witnessed the cornfield teeming with cranes. Here, I observed the cranes up close, witnessing their feeding and social interactions. Later in the afternoon, snow geese joined the cranes, transforming the cornfield into a bustling stadium. As night fell, it was time for them to return to the roost area. Flock after flock, the cranes soared through the sky. It was exhilarating to witness this natural ceremony against the backdrop of a snow-covered mountain and a slowly rising moon, showcasing the mightiness of nature.

After three days immersed in the wonders of nature, I reluctantly bid farewell. Along the way, my journey continued to unfold, from hiking down to the Colorado River at the Grand Canyon’s south rim to exploring Sabino Canyon’s Phoneline Trail amidst giant saguaros. Near Tucson, I visited the Saguaro National Park, savoring the sunrise and sunset in the saguaro garden. Chiricahua’s mesmerizing stone formations showcased nature’s formidable force. With limited time, I also ventured to the historic mining towns of Bisbee and Tombstone. My trip was a delightful odyssey.

As I prepared to head back home, the allure of the cranes beckoned me for one final visit. Under the night sky, I drove toward Whitewater Draw once again. The sound of birdsong and the proximity to nature brought a sense of peace. At dawn, the eastern clouds ignited, creating a fire sunrise that bathed the sky. The cranes, awakened by the sunlight, warmed their bodies and dried their feathers with the rising sun. Once again, they turned toward the wind and took flight, heralding the beginning of a new day. I was thrilled to witness these birds and be part of their life cycle, a fitting conclusion to a journey filled with the wonders of nature. ◆