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Headed out to the canyon. The waves were not high, but crashing down fast and loud. Behind the surf zone, it was flat. The water looked beautiful. I dropped down on the sandy slope near the main wall. There was a mild surge and water felt warm. But once I got to the canyon edge,…
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The shores was cloaked by the thick fog this morning. The waves were tiny and the ocean was super flat. Kicked out to the north of the canyon. Dropped down in the old crap patch and hit the thermocline at about 50 ft. The water was super calm, crispy, and clear. The visibility was at…
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It was a quiet morning at the shores. Walked into the water before the sunrise. The waves were low and the ocean was flat. Dropped down at the main wall and headed north. The canyon was murky. The visibility was around 15 ft and warm 56F. The surge subdued. Back to the shallow, the visibility…
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It was fairly late when the film festival finished last night and I was planning to sleep in. But I woke up at the same time and decided to check out the shores. This time I didn’t follow my ‘lazy weekend north wall’; instead I opted for the south wall, hoping to find the ‘spotless’…
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Went to the shores this morning before the sunrise. I was planning for the north wall. But it was dark and the waves were big, I opted for the V point and the main wall. Entry needed a bit timing but beyond the surf zone, it was flat. Dropped down near the old crap patch.…





